When it comes to dining, SAFRA@29 Carpenter Street had seen a slew of rebranding initiatives before settling on the bustling coffee shop that we see today. “This is a manifestation of the many challenging lessons that we have learnt along the way,” says Kennie Liu, the co-founder of this dining outlet, as well as the JUwei brand that it is housed under.
JUwei Old Nanyang Coffee Shop is an ode to the nostalgia of kopitiams of yesteryear, along with an update to the old-school cuisine with modern touches. We got to sample an array of Nanyang-inspired dishes, taking us on a culinary adventure back in time.
Unexpectedly shiok!
I would never have thought that this modern eatery would produce a Nasi Lemak that is so good!
Presented on a miniature charcuterie board, the dish comes with a generous serving of fried peanuts and fried ikan bilis, achar, a curried veggie stew as well as an entire fried chicken leg that is topped with crispy bits. While the rice is predictably fragrant (as one would expect of Nasi Lemak), the chicken is truly the star of the show. Incredibly tender on the inside while retaining a satisfying crunch when you bite into the skin, the chicken leg is masterfully cooked to a delicious satisfaction. The sambal chilli does its job well to complement the entire dish with a well-rounded fiesta of flavours. If you choose to order this, I strongly recommend sharing it as the portion size is huge!
The Penang Fried Kway Teow is the quintessential comfort food for many – noodles are well-seasoned and springy, and the dish is liberally mixed with prawns, bean sprouts and chunks of lap cheong (Chinese sausage).
Though I might be biased – the dish comes with plenty of fried bits of pork lard – which I cannot stress enough, LOVE! They add a lovely crunch alongside a burst of fatty saltiness. Of course, you can always request that they omit this addition (but why?) when ordering.
Its Kuala Lumpur (KL) Hokkien Mee is quite unlike our local variant. This plate of noodles is doused in a thick, dark soy-based broth that is as sweet as it is savoury. If you’re looking for a quick, belly-filling meal, this is definitely it!
JUwei’s Prawn Noodles brims with umami undertones that are complemented with a delicate sweetness. If you prefer a lighter and soupier dish, you will definitely enjoy this one!
As for its Roast Pork Curry Cheong Fun, I enjoyed the unique interplay of the spiced flavours from the curry, and the caramelised notes from the sweet sauce.
Everyday comforts
It wouldn’t be right to write about a kopi shop without actually touching on the kopi, would it? But I’m more of a teh tarik-peng kind of guy, and JUwei Old Nanyang Coffee Shop doesn’t disappoint. The ice-cold beverage is creamy, delicately sweet and a great reprieve from our notoriously humid weather.
Like wine and cheese, a cup of teh or kopi shares a beautiful chemistry with a plate of kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. JUwei Old Nanyang Coffee Shop stays true to this symbiotic love, albeit with a twist, substituting the toast with bite-size youtiao. The novelty is interesting – the richness of the pandan-infused kaya dip adds a nice contrast and makes this dish a great mini sharing platter. Of course, if you’re more of a traditionalist, they also have the Kaya Toast Set, which comes with two soft-boiled eggs.
And if you’re feeling sleepy, the Kopi Tarik is definitely the fuel you need! I love how ‘gao’ (strong) this beverage is, though I might ask for a less sweet (siew dai) version the next time I drop by. For the more intrepid diner, make sure to try its Hor Ka Sai Kopi, a robust blend of kopi, condensed milk and milo!
A re-modernised time capsule
This review notwithstanding, the crowd size alone is a testament to the success of this quaint eatery. We could barely find an empty table upon our arrival! Even after we were done, there were still customers strolling in way past the peak lunch period looking to have a casual hang out with their friends.
JUwei Old Nanyang Coffee Shop’s familiar culinary repertoire will strike a chord with diners who simply desire food that is wholesome, unpretentious and timeless. More importantly, it is a great spot for midnight revellers searching for a supper food spot after a night of dancing and alcohol-bingeing, given that it operates all the way till 2am.
I’m excited to see what other dishes JUwei Old Nanyang Coffee Shop has in store for us next!
SAFRA members enjoy 10% off a la carte food items at JUwei Old Nanyang Coffee Shop (not applicable to beverages), which is located at SAFRA@29 Carpenter Street, Level 1, Singapore 059923. It opens from Mondays to Saturdays, 8am to 2am. Click here for more information.
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